Discover Georgia: A Land of Wintertime Adventure
Think of a small European country famous for its mountains, valleys, picturesque villages and exhilarating winter sports. Switzerland? Of course. Austria? Absolutely. But here’s a third country you may not instantly think of: Georgia.
There’s a very good case for swapping the Alps for the Caucasus for winter adventures. Cost is part of it; everything from day passes on the slopes to wines in restaurants may cost half of what visitors would expect to pay at Western European resorts, and this needn’t be a compromise. Georgia’s ski resorts host major international competitions. As for wine, this is the region that invented it, but for all that ancient lineage, Georgia’s wine industry is very much invested in the modern world.
Begin in Bakuriani
In the heart of Georgia, Bakuriani is a family-friendly ski resort in the Trialeti Range. The area has been a center of health tourism since the 19th century, thanks to abundant mineral springs, and the resort, halfway between the capital, Tbilisi, and the coastal resort of Batumi, opened in 1935.
Bakuriani’s highest point is 1,700 meters, and there are 23 runs, and ski jumps for the really adventurous. Getting there can be part of the adventure if you take the Kukushka train from Borjomi. For non-skiers, there are horse-drawn sleds and snowmobiles.
For a gentle, cost-conscious introduction to Georgia’s winter scene, Bakuriani is a good choice. Other on-piste ski resorts are found in the Zuruldi and Hatsvali mountains.
Experienced skiers and those looking for a bigger Caucasus adventure will head to the best-known of Georgia’s ski areas, Gudauri.
Adventure in Gudauri
Gudauri is covered by snow four months of the year. It is easily accessible (only 74 miles) from Tbilisi. The spectacular drive from the capital passes the Zhinvali Reservoir, with its clear, turquoise waters, the village of Pasanauri and the Ananuri Fortress, which, with its icy blue domes and dramatic position on the Georgian Military Highway, is an unforgettable sight in winter.
To the northeast, and deeper into the Caucasus, is Mestia. It’s the picture-perfect mountain escape, with icy streams, stone walls and high towers—and Georgia’s second-biggest ski resort, Tetnuldi, is only a short taxi ride away.
Tetnuldi attracts experienced, off-piste skiers, especially from its highest point—3,345 meters. Or take a guided ski tour to Adishi, one of the most beautiful villages in Georgia.
Visitors who don’t ski can also have a magical time in Mestia, the UNESCO-listed center of medieval Svan culture.
Taking the high road
The province that includes Mestia, Svaneti, is also a hiker’s heaven. Lower Svaneti offers wonderful walks through rivers, meadows and low hills, but it’s the peaks, glaciers and monasteries of Upper Svaneti that are most often seen on Instagram feeds.
Northeast of the capital, “His Majesty,” Mount Kazbegi, attracts pro climbers in winter. At 5,054 meters, Kazbegi is the third-highest peak in the Caucasus. For visitors who want to see this most celebrated peak, the mysterious mountain church at Mount Gergeti and the alpine town of Stepantsminda, winter is the time to visit without the crowds.
Take time to relax
Not every winter holiday has to involve winter sports. How about some invigorating bathing?
Japan, Scandinavia or Iceland might come to mind as the go-to places for that exhilarating mixture of cold air and steaming water, but sulfur baths are just as integral to Georgian culture. The center and south of the country offer many sulfur baths, geysers, spa resorts and thermal springs, in locations including Tbilisi, Borjomi, Nokalakevi, Dikhashkho, Tskaltubo, Abastumani, Sairme, Nunisi, Torghva, Lailashi and Pansheti. It’s the perfect way to relax after a winter day’s hiking or skiing.
And, incredible as the mountains and valleys are, don’t rule out a short break in Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi—a fantastic winter city.
The city’s climate is milder than that of the Caucasus region, but expect clear, crisp, sunny days. Visitors heading to the ski slopes should consider adding a day or two for Tbilisi’s hot baths, cozy restaurants and the very walkable streets of the Old Town.
Finally, there is the festive season—or, in the case of Georgia, with its long and rich history as a trade route between East and West, festive seasons. You can enjoy a Western Christian Christmas on December 25 and an Orthodox Christian one on January 7. New Year celebrations are huge, with plenty of partying, fireworks and carousing carrying on right through to mid-January. Tovlis Babua (Snow Grandfather) arrives on New Year’s Eve, with snow pretty much guaranteed to greet him throughout the country.
Come prepared with warm clothes, sunglasses and a big appetite for food, drink and adventure. Round it all off with a “supra”—the traditional Georgian feast. Nowhere offers a warmer welcome in the coldest months.
Source: Bloomberg